Italy: A country so filled with deliciousness, epic history and beautiful places, but also of tricky toilets, strict eating etiquettes, little coffees and many dogs.
For context, I had ventured to Italy various times in the past for weekend trips, but during Easter, I had a week to explore. I learnt so much more about Italian culture, traditions, history and food!
Our itinerary involved 3 parts:
Part 1
Meeting up with my travel companions in Milan. Then flocking out together by train to Genoa. In Genoa, we explored the port city. It's characterised by its historical centre, with its narrow cobbled streets, apartments with their washing lines hanging out of the window, and abundance of restaurants, bars, and a handful of hustlers.
A highlight was a spontaneous boat ride down the Italian Riviera, passing by beautiful coastal towns, with their iconic colourful houses built up sharp hills, shooting straight out from the deep blue sea. Culminating in well-known Portofino, a beautiful small fisherman town turned into a Monaco-esque destination for the very wealthy.
Part 2
We ventured inland, again by train, to the popular city of Florence. Our time included visiting the impressive Duomo, checking out trendy rooftops, and feasting on the Florentine steak.
We then continued to the countryside of Tuscany. We learnt about wine, drunk a lot of Chanti, visited vineyards, breathed in the fresh country air and soaked in the cypress-filled views.
Part 3
1. Food is life
A traditional “special” occasion type meal, for instance, one which you would have when visiting a restaurant, or how families would have on Sundays, follows a specific structure. This has been cultivated over centuries of eating. It involves many, many courses. And will span over hours. The longer the better it seems.
The starter usually involves a charcuterie board with salami, mortadella, or prosciutto, served with cheeses and bread. Then the “Primi”, follows which usually features pasta. No, pasta is apparently not the main meal here. There is more to come.
After comes “Secondi”, here you will encounter different meat and seafood options, depending on the region. When we had lunch at the Vineyard in Tuscany this was an array of grilled meat and sausages, with potato and vegetables. It’s a lot of food and it doesn’t stop there. But, as this popular Italian food saying goes, “The appetite comes while you are eating.”
To start wrapping up the meal, there's usually more cheese, a dessert, perhaps a Vin Santo liquor with biscuits, then coffee - always espresso after eating - then a digestive, like Limoncello, or, if you're brave, Grappa.
2. It’s not all pasta and pizza
Italian cuisine extends wide and far. From traditional regional dishes to modern twists on the classics, to interesting street food and much, much more.
One of my favourite dishes of the trip was the Florentine Steak - from well, Florence - which was so juicy and massive.
I also really enjoyed the “Pinsa Romana”, similar to a pizza but with a square shape, with soft dough on the inside and crusty on the outside.
One of the weirdest things I ate was at a street food stall in Genoa. I pointed to what I believed was a pancake filled with cheese, but which in fact was a massive piece of thinly fried cheese. It wasn’t horrible, but greasy, salty and cheesy. Saying that, I still ate all of it.
Another observation, the food didn’t seem to be as healthy or balanced as I had imagined a Mediterranean diet would be. We noticed a Mcdonald's in nearly every single town, village, city, and train station we went to. And a heavy emphasis on bread, cheese and deep-fried food.
3. Yes, you can get in fact get Italian-food-ed out
Eating what we might consider stereotypical Italian food every day, all day long, actually can get a little tiring.
The first few days I stuffed myself with all the pizzetas, cold cuts, breads, pizzas, pastas, lasagnas, cheeses and tiramisus I could find. But nearing the end of the trip I felt like I was ready to cut the carbs and decrease the fats, and get a dose of different flavours.
Now being home for a few days, I would not turn down an Italian bowl of homemade pasta though.
4. Espresso is the name of the game
A “Caffe” is an Espresso. Unless you ask for milk or specify what type of coffee you would like, you're getting served an Espresso.
Once my friend ordered a black coffee, hoping for a large mug filled to the top - as they would commonly serve in Latin America. But in front of her, a tiny little cup was placed, with about a teaspoon of very strong coffee.
So take note:
- A caffè is a strong shot of espresso.
- A macchiato is an espresso with a dash of steamed milk.
- An americano is an espresso with added hot water making for a slightly longer drink.
- A cappuccino is an espresso topped with warm frothy milk.
But be careful, they will judge you a lot if you order anything but an espresso after lunch or dinner. In Italian culture, a cappuccino is to not be had after 10 am.
I must add, I did enjoy the caffe very very much. It was strong, tasty and rich. It was also refreshingly cheap; with most prices for coffee being around €2.
5. Every bathroom was strangely different
This is a funny one. And after visiting many toilets, I still have no idea what to expect of an Italian bathroom.
Weirdly many toilets did not have seats. For instance, several times in popular cafes or restaurants, there would be just one bathroom, shared for everyone, and seatless. And nobody seemed bothered by this except us.
Some bathrooms had one button to flush, others had two buttons, some had buttons on the top of the toilet, some on the side, and some like a switch on the wall next to the toilet. Others had a cable you would have to pull down or even a step on a button on the floor.
Then there's the basins. Some were automatic, others like a regular tap, and one that I found the most quirky was a foot pedal under the basin, which you had to step down to turn the water on.
Every bathroom visit was unique, and for which I needed multiple minutes to figure out the logistics of the situation!
@sarahlthompson11 Sanitation at its best 🧼👌🏻 #italy #bagno #italia #sud #americaninitaly #lifeinitaly #livinginitaly #sorrento #americanabroad #expatinitaly #cultureshock #cultureshocks #bathroom #restroom ♬ Cleaning - Owen Wang
6. It can be pretty pricey
Hotels were also more expensive than I would have imagined, with hostels being around 50 euros a night! Perhaps it was an Easter thing?
Trains ranged in price too. For instance, our train from Milan to Genoa was only around 20 euros, but the train from Genoa to Rome was 50 euros.
Saying that there are some great cheap street food options, bakeries and supermarkets with an abundance of interesting and delicious options. So I suppose it is also about looking for budget options, stepping out of the tourist hot spots and being a little creative.
7. The main tourist spots, are well, extremely full of tourists
It might sound obvious, but I was overwhelmed and shocked by the quantity and masses of tourists we found. Italy has become the fifth most visited country in the world, with almost 65 million people visiting each year.
We especially saw hoards and hoards of tourists from near and far in spots like Genoa’s Portofino, Florence’s Duomo and the Uffizi and Rome’s Fountain of Trevi and the Vatican. For instance, did you know around 25,000 people visit the Vatican Museums every day?! And I can confirm that number sounds accurate. I was shocked to see the endless line queuing up, in the cold rain, for hours and hours.
But, when we would take side streets off these main spots we would find deserted streets filled with quirky and interesting shops and cafes, perfect for exploring.
8. Italian language is very different to Spanish
I assumed I would be able to communicate and be understood using my bilingual Spanish skills. but many times I found myself completely lost in translation.
There are a few words and phrases that can be very useful for getting around. Here are my favourites:
- Hello / Goodbye: Ciao
- Good morning: Buongiorno
- Good evening: Buonasera
- Have a good evening: Buona serata
- Please: Per favore
- Thank you: Grazie
- Thanks so much: Grazie mille
- Yes: Sì
- No: No
- How much is it?: Quanto costa?
- Good: Buon
- Very good: Buonissimo.
The last one was my top used word. I applied it (probably incorrectly) as “that’s great”, “thank You”, for example, when anyone gave me anything, or when I wanted to say “delicious” or “nice.”
@luisorlando_7 #ladiplomazia #ragazzabuenisima #buenisimachallenge #spaghetti #niñaitalinaquelegustaelespageti #espageti🍝 #italiana ♬ Sad Music - Max-Music
9. "Allora"
On the topic of language, another favourite word and expression we picked up was Allora, because everyone was using it so much!
It’s used as a filler word to say “so”, “then”, “well”, as well as ”come on”, and “hey!”.
It’s one of those filler words that's highly useful when thinking of what to say in Italian. It buys you a little time and tells the listener you're thinking things over, especially when used by itself, or to introduce a sentence.
10. It can get a little gritty, and that's okay
At times I was quite surprised to find my expectations of Italy challenged. Nearly every city or town we explored, had a gritty side to it.
But don’t get me wrong, I enjoy seeing the real side of places and not just the postcard image of them. I noticed across Italy there are homeless people, run-down buildings which are in need of some good TLC, a lot of street art and graffiti, local markets and supermarkets, and a lot of diversity.
For instance, I had imagined Genoa as a charming and cute seaside city with colourful houses, but in reality, it's a big and bustling city.
Another observation I made was in Rome, where you can see the historical building with graffiti tags next to them.
Italy is not all lemon trees and perfectly painted houses, and that’s okay, it’s real, and it has its uniqueness.
11. Ristorante? Trattoria? Osteria? What’s the difference?
In Genoa we learnt that there are apparently different types of eating spots, especially in Liguria, the region of north-western Italy.
The most important thing is that nowadays names don’t mean as much as in the past. For instance, some “trattorias” or “ristorantes” call themselves “osterias” and vice versa … so it is a little bit confusing. However, the majority of these places still keep their traditional significance.
So usually:
- A Ristorante tends to be a bit more expensive and formal.
- A Trattoria is usually traditional, family-owned, rustic. Prices are usually much lower than in ristorantes.
- A Osteria is generally a wine bar which serves simple meals. Osteria’s offer changes daily, according to the market.
But who really cares what is what, go to all of them, try all the delicious food and wine they have on offer!
12. Italy can be cold and rainy
Italy's climate is mostly Mediterranean, characterised by hot, dry summers and cold, rainy winters. In Easter, we experienced a bit of both.
Some days were full of hot sunshine, seeing highs of 20 degrees, and other days seeing lows of 4 degrees. At the end of our trip to Rome, we had torrential rain, with roads being flooded over. My learning? Be prepared for anything and everything, especially out of summer.
13. Italians love dogs
Did you know around 25 per cent of Italian households own at least one dog?Wow, I thought the UK was a dog-loving nation, but Italians are sure up there too!
We saw many different types of dogs, most were very well-groomed and with proud-looking owners.
I also noticed dogs are not just allowed into establishments, they’re invited. Bowls are set outside almost every single restaurant and shop.
14. Olives don’t seem to be commonly eaten
After living in Spain for 6 years I assumed Italians would also share the same love for olives to go along with a glass of wine in bars or as a side in restaurants. But after 6 days of scanning restaurant menus, the only place I saw olives for sale was in supermarkets at the Eataly food hall in Rome’s international airport.
Perhaps olives are a seasonal thing, and just not available at Easter?
Maybe they use the oil but don’t eat them?
Or is my image of olives a tapa Spanish thing?
I’m still seeking answers people!
15. Italians have a great sense of humour
Most of the Italians we met on our travels were so friendly and funny. They were quick to laugh and enjoy making others laugh. They are also not afraid to use self-deprecating humour.
One of the funniest moments from our trip was when our hotel manager in Tuscany introduced us to “Nasty Cat”, or as Franceso pronounced “e-naa-s-tey kat”, the unwanted, and pretty unfriendly hotel pet. He made it very clear they were frenemies, to our giggles.
The Italian sense of humour is so special thanks to the way they use body language and gestures. Italians are very expressive and animated when they speak. I wouldn't say this is a stereotype, it very much can be seen in how they use their hands and facial expressions, especially when telling a joke or story.
16. There’s so much history, everywhere
History is everywhere in Italy! It's no surprise with the country has 55 world heritage sites, more than anywhere else in the world. It is incredible to soak in its historical richness.
And I don't just mean history as in Rome's Colosseum, and the magnitude of impressive buildings and attractions, but the also "casual" amazing historical atmosphere. Such as with churches, status dotted around the city, amazing architecture, massive doors to people's flats, and narrow Roman streets.
Take a stroll down the historical centre of any city, and it will immediately reveal its lengthy history, however, nowadays usually with a modern touch, such as a graffiti tag added next to it.
17. Public transport can be the way to go
On this trip, we moved around, a lot. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to get around Italy with public transport.
Buses from the airport were easy. Trains were fast, on time, comfortable and fairly priced. There is also Uber in most big cities which is very helpful, and affordable.
The only issue we encountered in terms of public transport was a Train Strike, which caused a lot of chaos in Florence’s main train station. But, we were able to quickly buy a ticket with another train company.
To visit Tuscany and get around the countryside, we had originally booked a car but decided to cancel it last minute after reading their Google reviews, which read as follows: “WORST CAR AGENCY EVERY - DO NOT BOOK!” and “They are scammers! They charged us for many extra costs” or “They prey on tourists and will try to take your money because they know you can!”, and many more following the same lines.
But in the end, we were very glad we cancelled the car as we were able to Uber from the centre of Florence to our hotel. It was around 70 euros for the 40-minute drive.
Then a local lady, who drives tourists around for the hotel, offered to be our private driver during our stay. It made drinking many many glasses of wine in vineyards extremely useful.
I hope you enjoyed my Italian learnings and observations! For more pics and travel tips follow Mattie Explores on Instagram :)